Saturday, January 31, 2009

Osataya Mtima(Don't lose heart)

Chapter One: Village Life
I was a little unsure about my village in the beginning. They always say it takes time to intregrate into your community and for the people to get use to you. But, I replaced a volunteer, and this volunteer was well liked. I could not get the kids to stop calling me Peggy(which is suppose to be Paige but they really couldn't pronounce it) and even though I would tell them in Chichewa "Dzina Courtney osati Peggy" (My name is Courtney not Peggy) they would continue to chant it as they followed behind me. The older folks would greet my in Chitonga and when I would fumble with the words, they would shake their heads as if there was no hope for me. I was worried...really worried. I thought that "man, if I can't get these folks to like me, how can I expect them to work with me?" But, I slapped a smile on my face one day and returned to the same restaurant Jenn, Tim, Natalie and I ate at on Christmas day and decided to chat with Edith, the owner. That was probably the best decision I have made to date in Malawi. I have met so many people in my village by sitting on the porch of Edith's restaurant. People have warmed up to me significantly and now call me Courtney and not Peggy. My Chitonga has improved(there's still ways to go) and having and being a part of community has definetley boosted my mental state ten fold. I absolutely love my village now!! I like being able to leave but even now i've only been in Lilongwe since yesterday but i'm ready to go back. I am definetley happy in Kasitu and glad I was placed there. Oh, and i'm sure the lake helps with the happiness factor. Daily RoutineMany of you have written and said you're curious to know what my day is like. Well, its like any other day, pretty normal, nothing too out of the ordinary happens. I wake up somewhere around 5:30am. I heat up some water in a teapot on my paraffin stove and do the previous night's dishes or other little things around the house until the water is hot. I take a bafa around 6:15am and get ready for school. I try to be out of my house by 7 because school starts at 7:30am most days. I'm at school from 7 until 2ish and then I head home. I eat some type of snack because well, let's face it, i'm no Rachel Ray and cooking is just not my thing so I prefer to make something easy in the afternoon and save the cooking for in the evening. After I eat a snack I do various chores around the home. I have designated Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday as "fetching water from the borehole days", some days I will take my dishes down to the lake to wash if there is no collected water from the rain. I sweep my house daily, wipe everything down, and generally try to keep things clean. Sundays before church, I take my clothes down to the lake to wash them, unless it has rained because then the crocs come out(supposedly) and I decided I shouldn't find out for myself. Around 4ish I head over to Edith's restaurant and chat it up with folks. There's quite a few younger folks(think mid-20s) here, some are teachers at the private school up the road, others are just here. We all tend to gravitate towards Edith's and hangout and chat for awhile. Around 6ish, i'll head home. I take a bafa(I leave my bucket of water out in the sun all day to warm it up so I don't have to waste paraffin heating up water), begin dinner preps, and then figure out if I need to do anything for school. I do everything by candlelight and I must say that having candlelit dinners every night is quite romantic even if i'm eating alone. Around 8:30 or 9 depending on when I finish doing what i'm doing, I head to bed. I read for a bit but am usually asleep by 10pm. Right there is the typical day in the life of Courtney Wright Nyankaunda(my village Tonga name...supposedly everyone has to have one and it means 'woman' given to me by a friend).
My School
The first week of school was 4 weeks ago. I was excited, woke up with butterflies, put on my little teacher outfit and walked the 100m to the school. I was ready to teach. The only problem was there were no students! The students did not come because they were still waiting on the results from their end of term exams that determine whether they can move up to the next level or not. The government was a bit delayed on getting the results out, so technically school didn't start for another week. But I made the most of that time and did some lesson planning. The school, it's not like the schools you think of in America. My Form 1(freshman), there are 52 of them. They sit on the floor because there are no desks and the walls are scribbled with graffitti. It's hot and there are only these little circular cut outs for windows. I'm not sure how they are able to learn in that environment but for the most part they do. But all that scribble has got to be distracting. I have one english book for my form 1s so I use it as a guide and do a lot of writing on the board and flip chart paper. My form 2s(sophmores) well every teacher has a bad class..this is mine. I have 72 form 2s and most of them sit crammed, 3 to a desk. I also only have one book for that class. Many of the students are repeaters because they failed the exam, so technically I would only have 50 form 2s. My form 3s(juniors) are awesome! They have passed the exam and moved onto the next round. I have 23 but only 3 girls and there are enough desks for them to only sit 2 to a desk. My form 4s are awesome as well! 3 girls there too..but it's cool i'm determined to make sure these girls pass the MSCE(Malawi Senior Certificate Exam) and have more options available to them then just getting married and having babies. It is hard to motivate students to come to school in my community because we're right on the lake and in the lake is fish and fish is money. So easy money. Why come to school when you can go out in a dugout canoe and catch fish? Hopefully, I can motivate enough students to think differently, but then again i'm happy if I motivate just one.My fellow teachers...I refer to them as the Godfathers because i'm pretty sure they would take anyone down if they messed with me. They buy me cold sodas and cookies, invite me to their homes to eat, and generally make sure that i'm ok. I wish their own motivation in school was a bit higher but then again I can't force grown men to do something they don't want to do. I try to lead by example and it actually worked. The first day of school I showed up at 7am. School starts at 7:30a but there's an assembly at 7:15a. None of my fellow teachers were there, so I just waited. After a little bit they start showing up. Well after they found out I have been there since 7, they have made it a point to beat me to school(well most of them) so now they come in around 6:30a or a little before 7. So everything really does work out in the end...for now. Overall, school is challenging but it is a welcomed challenge and my students are more comfortable with me and my American english. My students help me a lot and like to come by and chat to work on their english. I try to have fun with them in class once a week and at first it was bit hard for them but slowly they're catching on, beginning to smile more, laugh some, and enjoy learning. I'm not a saint worker or a miracle worker but i'm quite impressed by the drive of my students and hope that I can help continue their drive even further.
Friends
Friends...how many of us have them? I do! I have some of the best friends in my village. Edith is the one i'm closest to. She teaches me Chitonga and I teach her english. I'm going to help her study for the MSCE so she can retake it and pass. I have adopted her daughter Charity...well not technically. But Edith feeds the two mentally handicapped people and the homeless man in my village for free, which causes her to lose money. I didn't want them not to eat and I didn't want Charity to miss out on nursery school because her mother was feeding people for free, so I took on the cost of her fees. For the lost price of 500 kwacha(about 4 USD) a month, you can send a Malawian child to nursery school( well, that's what the infomercial would say). It's well worth it, and really what's $4 between friends. Plus, she occassionally feeds me too. So it really works out for everyone. Then there's Hassan. He really reminds me of my twin. His love for music and sense of humor definetley make me think of you Nick(and you better be writing me a letter or I will replace you with Hassan..haha). Hassan has given me a tour of the village, taken me to the hotspring, helps me with my Chitonga, and is the chairman of the HIV/AIDS awareness group in this area which i'm now advising. He speaks good english and is pretty cool to hangout with. The Stokes family...by far the most giving people I have met. And there's a whole story behind this so get ready to read.... One day I was sitting on Edith's porch chatting away when some soccer players approached. They were getting ready to head back to Dwangwa as the game just ended and stopped by Edith's. I had my water bottle and they asked for some water, so I shared and didn't think too much of it. We chat, they catch transport and head back. Well, later that week I head to Dwangwa to do some shopping and run into George. George was one of the soccer players I shared some water with. Well, he tells me I must meet his family because I was nice to him and his family lives close so it won't be too long. A Malawian's close is not really close as this was a good 20 min bike taxi ride away. I get to his family's home expecting some thatched roof hut only to be surprised that it's a house! A house with electricity!! His father is a farm manager with Illovo Sugar Company and his mother does wholesale stuff. Pretty well off indeed. They welcomed me into their home, gave me cold cokes, fed me rice, chicken, and green beans and we all hung out and watched movies. Not bad and all that from simply being nice. They invite me over all the time now, and when I can find some time i'll take up the offers. I have definitely found that I enjoy being around my friends from the village much more than some of my fellow volunteers. Don't get me wrong, it's nice to be around an American, but it seems like now after living in a village, I have more in common with my village friends because we can talk about the different things that are happening in our lives in the village whereas with other Americans, well, we have being American in common and after being out of America the common becomes a little more distant...but being an American does count for something. Don't get me wrong, I do have some friends from the Peace Corps(who I enjoy immensely and if these were the only english speakers in country I would have no problem with it and that includes you Jenn) but i'm realizing more and more that I have to make this an experience for myself and really can't make the experience fulfilling for others so I have quit trying to make others happy and began focusing on my own happiness and that, my friend, is key. I'm totally content being in my own world as long as i'm happy and it's worked so far so i'm going to continue doing it.

Anyways, life in Kasitu aka Tongaland is definitely great and I can't complain about anything. Malawi is a pretty great place to be as a volunteer and I hope that it continues to go well from here until the time I leave.

It's all about making life work for you and so far it's working pretty well for me.

Heading back to the village tomorrow, back in Lilo in a month or so....so until then

Love and hugs from the Warm Heart of Africa!

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Happy New Year!

Just want to wish everyone a blessed, stress-free, happy, healthy, and safe New Year!!! I'm heading back to my village tomorrow so if you want to get in contact with me use the #. Otherwise, i'll be back in a month or so to update you on the happenings in Tongaland.

Much love,
Courtney